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Welcome! Welkom! Bienvenue! Willkommen! Benvenuto! Boa vinda! ˇRecepción! Welcome to Europe's largest online yoyo shop! A complete range of yoyo's, yoyo accessories and yo-yo strings
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How to wind on a yo-yo string
The photo shows how to use a finger to help you start winding on a yoyo string.
I do actually get asked this! Unless you have been told or shown, the trick is not immediately obvious.
When winding a string on a yoyo you might find the string moves around the yoyo axle without winding on. The simple solution is to put a finger under the string and wind the string over your finger a few times. You can then remove your finger and continue winding the string.
This happens because most modern yo-yos have a transaxle or ball-bearing axle system that allows the yoyo to spin freely on the end of the string (ie 'sleep'). When you try to wind the string on the yoyo, the string will just turn on the axle indefinitely. Use your finger to trap the string until sufficient string is bunched around the axle for you to remove your finger and wind the string on.
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How to remove a yo-yo string
Photo: shows how you can unwind the yo-yo string to make a loop, which then allows you to remove the yoyo string without undoing the yo-yo halves.
There should not be any need to undo a yoyo to remove the yoyo string. In fact, it is better to avoid undoing a yoyo unnecessarily. However, if the string is tangled, then you might have to undo the two halves of the yo-yo to remove the string. Remember, not all yo-yos have a 'take-apart' design.
To remove a yoyo string without undoing a yoyo:
1. With the yoyo hanging from one hand, unwind (untwist) the yoyo string to form a large loop.
2. Pull the loop over and off the yoyo.
You are now ready to replace the yoyo string.
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How to replace a yo-yo string
How to put a new string on a yo-yo.
The photo shows how you can make the loop at the end of the yoyo string big enough to go over the yo-yo and onto the bearing without having to undo the yo-yo halves.
There should not be any need to undo a yoyo to fit a new yoyo string. Just follow these steps!
1. Remove the old yo-yo string (see 'How to remove a yo-yo string').
2. Find the loop end of a new yo-yo string. Make the loop bigger until it is big enough to slip over the yo-yo.
3. Re-twist the yo-yo string by letting the yo-yo hang from the yoyo string and tightening (winding) the yo-yo in a clock-wise direction. The loop will then close onto the axle.
All done!
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How to put the yo-yo string on your finger
The picture shows the yoyo string with the slip-knot ready for use.
One end of the yo-yo string has a knotted loop. This loop does NOT go on your finger. You use this loop to create a slip-knot and this goes on your finger. To make the slip-knot, simply pass the string through the knotted loop as shown. This slip-knot will tighten to fit snugly around your finger.
Remember: the yo-yo string goes around the player's middle (longest) finger, between the two knuckles of the finger.
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![How often should I change my yo-yo string?]()
How often should I change my yo-yo string?
As your yoyo string wears out it will become weaker, dirty (sweaty hands, lube, that donut you ate etc!) thinner, frayed and less 'fluffy'. This changes the way the string plays and will make the string more prone to breaking.
Some players change their strings after every few hours of play. As a rule I would change the string as soon as it appears to be frayed or 'tired'. If a yoyo string breaks during play your yoyo can be propelled across the room, damaging itself and anything in it's path. So apart from a new string playing and looking nicer than a tired old one, it could save you money, injuries and yo-yos!
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![How long should my yo-yo string be?]()
How long should my yo-yo string be?
As a guide, a yoyo string should extend from the floor to your belly-button. When you fit a new yoyo string to your yoyo, you will need to check it's length since the length of yoyo strings will vary. Put the new string on your yoyo and let it hang so it just touches the floor. Where the string is level with your belly-button, you want to knot in a loop. Then cut the excess string from the yoyo. Yes, this does mean you will often end up cutting off the existing pre-tied loop on your yoyo strings!
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What causes a yo-yo string tangle?
The picture shows over-twisted yoyo string.
If you find your yoyo string ends up looking like this, then it is due to it becoming over-twisted (tightened). During play the yoyo string has become more and more wound up, and when the string is at rest it twists itself into a fine mess.
To undo this twisted tangle, simply let the yoyo hang freely from your finger. The yoyo will rotate, and the string will untwist until it is in a 'neutral' state. In its 'neutral' state, the yoyo will not rotate any more. To speed up this process you can pinch the string at the top of the yo-yo and then draw your pinched finger down the string. You will see the yoyo rotate more quickly as a result. You may need to do this several times.
There is also a neat trick called a sidewinder that can be used to untighten (or tighten) a string.
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![Which yo-yo string can my yo-yo use?]()
Which yo-yo string can my yo-yo use?
Any yo-yo string can be used with any yo-yo. They are all broadly the same and perform the same function. You do not need to use (for example) Duncan Strings with a Duncan yo-yo. You can use any make of yo-yo strings with any make of yo-yo.
However, some strings suit some yo-yos better than others. For example, looping yo-yos are generally better used with a thicker cotton strings, because of the way the string affects the play of the yoyo.
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![How do the different yo-yo strings affect play?]()
How do the different yo-yo strings affect play?
Cotton strings tend to be the softest and the thickest of the strings. They have a less slippery surface and so are a little more responsive in play. Some players prefer these for looping yo-yos.
Cotton polyester mix strings are commonly called 'slicks'. So for example, 'slick 6's' are a 50/50 cotton/poly mix type 6 yoyo string. As the name suggests, these are a bit more slippery and less responsive in play. They are also quite hard-wearing. They are very popular, and favoured by many players for use in 'V' or 'Wing' yoyos when used for string tricks where less response is needed.
100% Polyester strings are increasingly popular and are made purely from polyester. These synthetic strings are the least responsive of the strings. That is to say, they offer the least friction between string and yoyo. This promotes longer spin times especially when used in multi-layered string tricks where a lot of string comes into contact with the spinning yoyo.
There are new synthetic strings coming out which offer other characteristics for the more advanced and specialist players.
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![Why do my strings keep breaking?]()
Why do my strings keep breaking?
All yoyo strings will wear out and eventually they will break. Some strings will last longer than others. It is important to change your yoyo strings quite regularly, and as soon as there are any signs of fraying or worn string. Remember: a new string costs a few pence, but your new yo-yo flying into the room if a string breaks could be a lot more costly.
Some things will cause strings to wear out more quickly:
If you are playing with a new metal yoyo, then the anodised or other coating on the surface of the yo-yo can be like very fine abrasive paper. Yo-yo strings will quite quickly wear out. After a time this abrasiveness will wear off.
If your yoyo has any damage ('dinks') these might be wearing your string out.
Some plastic yoyos are not perfectly finished: check them for any irregularities.
Cotton and poly/cotton yoyo strings can deteriorate over time. Keep them dry.
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![What are left-handed strings?]()
What are left-handed strings?
Left-handed yo-yo strings have the twist in the string in the opposite direction to normal yo-yo strings. The twist of the left-handed strings is in an anti-clockwise direction. The twist in right-handed yoyo string is in a clockwise direction.
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What is a traditional-shaped yo-yo?
The photo shows a Duncan Imperial Yo-yo which has a traditional shape
The 'traditional' shaped yo-yo is also commonly called the 'Imperial'™ shape. However, the name 'Imperial'™ is a registered Trade Mark of Duncan Yo-yos and so, despite the term 'Imperial'™ being in very common use, Duncan have asked us not to use that name to describe a traditionally shaped yo-yo. Duncan have asked us to refer substitute the term "Straight Gap". I have never heard anyone refer to the traditional shaped yoyo as a straight-gap and I don't intend to start doing so here! ;-)
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What is a modified-shaped yo-yo?
The photo shows the modified shape of a Tom Kuhn SB2 yo-yo
The modified (often referred to as the modified Imperial™) shaped yoyo is somewhere between a traditional shape and a wing-shape. Most modern looping yo-yo's favour the modified shape rather than the traditional shape.
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What is a wing-shaped yo-yo?
The photo shows the wing profile of a YoyoJam xconvict yoyo.
The Wing-shape is commonly known as the Butterfly™ profile, but like the Imperial™ profile this is a trademark of Duncan Yo-yos and we have been asked by their legal people not to use it. Even though it is, in my opinion, in common use. They own the trademark to that word and you are not to use it. And nor will we. ;-)
The wing shape is also known as the V or Vee shape, flared wing, Lepidoptera etc
This shape provides a large gap on which to catch the yo-yo on the string when performing string tricks. It is the modern yoyo shape and the shape most yo-yos are when playing 'new-school' yo-yo tricks.
The shape is not so suited to looping tricks since the V shape means a wider yoyo which means less axial stability.
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What is a H-profile yo-yo?
The photo shows the H-profile of the hspin Envy 64 yo-yo.
This is a very new yoyo shape, presently featured in some hspin and YoyoFactory yo-yos.
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How to tighten a yo-yo
The photo shows how you can use the palms of your hands to gently tighten a yoyo.
One of the weakest parts of a yo-yo is where the axle joins the yo-yo body. If you overtighten a yo-yo you can shear (tear) the thread from the axle or from the threaded hole in the yoyo body. Trust me, this is a very common cause of broken yo-yos. To help avoid this, you can tighten a yo-yo using the palms of your hands as shown in the photo.
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How to hold a yo-yo
The photo shows the most common way to grip a yo-yo during play.
The slip-knot end of the yo-yo string is around the player's middle (longest) finger, between the two knuckles of the finger. The string passes from the underside of the yoyo to the finger as shown. This provides the correct spin when the yoyo leaves the hand.
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| What is the yo-yo gap?
The photo shows a hspin Pyro yoyo (left) which has a large gap next to the Duncan Proyo yoyo (right) which has a narrow gap.
The yo-yo gap is simply the gap between the yoyo halves. Large gaps make for a less responsive yoyo which is better suited to string tricks and off-string play. It is easier to catch a yoyo on the string if the gap is larger. Small gaps are more responsive and best for looping tricks.
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| What is a 'sleeping' yo-yo?
A sleeping yo-yo is simply one that is spinning. To throw a 'sleeper' means you throw the yo-yo so that it does not return to the hand, but instead 'sleeps' or spins on the end of the yoyo string. To make the yo-yo return, you give the yoyo string a tug or perform a bind.
Some yo-yo enthusiasts compete to see who can make their yo-yo sleep longest. The key to success includes a very good hard throw, a good yoyo, a high quality clean bearing, and a lot of skill.
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| What is a transaxle?
The photo shows the simple but effective transaxle assembly of a Yomega Fireball yoyo.
'Transaxle' describes a collar or sleeve that fits over and rotates around the yo-yo axle. This reduces friction between the yoyo and the string and helps the yo-yo to sleep. Lubrication can further reduce friction. An early improvement on the fixed axle yoyo, the transaxle does provide markedly better sleep times than fixed axle yo-yos but cannot compare to a ball-bearing axle.
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| What is a ball bearing axle?
A ball bearing axle refers to the use of a ball bearing around the yoyo axle to hugely minimise friction when a yoyo is spinning. The ball bearing is similar to that found on a Tamiya model racing car, skate board, roller skate etc. Ball bearing axles provide the lowest friction and so the greatest sleep times on a yo-yo.
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| How to remove a ball bearing?
The actual fitting of a ball bearing varies but generally the bearing is simply pushed into a recess in the yoyo. On some yo-yos the ball bearing is a very tight fit and is not easy to remove.
It is not generally necessary to remove a ball bearing from a yoyo but if you need to and the bearing is too tightly fitting to be removed using just your fingers, here is a tip: wrap a wide rubber band around the yoyo bearing. This will protect the bearing. Then use pliars over the rubber band and use GENTLE pressure to rotate the bearing and pop it out of the recess.
Note: remove a bearing at your own risk! It is very easy to damage a yoyo bearing by exerting too much pressure during removal. Do not apply too much pressure n the bearing when using pliars in this way. Light pressure coupled with a backward and forward rotation of the bearing in the recess should do the trick. Do NOT use pliars without a protective rubber band over the bearing since the pliars will scratch and ruin the bearing.
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| Should I oil my yo-yo?
Note: Yo-yo oil is also known as 'Lube'
If your yoyo has a ball-bearing or transaxle fitted, then yes, a tiny drop of oil (lube) will be beneficial.
If your yo-yo has a fixed (usually wooden) axle, then no, do not oil it.
Oiling or lubricating a yoyo bearing will help keep the bearing in top condition by reducing friction and protecting it from moisture. Ball bearings are usually supplied to the yo-yo manufacturer's ready oiled, to protect them from moisture. The type of oil used will vary from a thin oil to a very thick grease. A thick grease will be very responsive and make the bearing spin less freely. For this reason, it is quite common practice to clean a yo-yo bearing to remove the grease applied during manufacture and replace it with something a little better. Conversely, a yoyo bearing that is not oiled ought to have a little light lube applied.
Note: a bearing that is not oiled at all is called a 'dry' bearing. It is not generally recommended to run any bearing totally 'dry' since it will tend to wear out more quickly.
Some bearing types such as ceramic bearings are shipped 'dry' and should be lubed before play.
Introducing a little light lube into a new ball bearing can help flush out any dirt from the bearing and thin any existing lube in the bearing. This is an alternative to cleaning a bearing (though not so effective).
If you do not have any yo-yo lube such as that by YoyoJam, Yomega etc, then sewing machine oil or a similar very light oil can be used.
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| Care of your metal yoyo
Care of your Metal Yoyo
Metal yo-yos are NOT toys! They are expensive, precision-made, delicately engineered works of art. They are easy to damage or break and need to be treated with a lot of respect to ensure their long life and your yo-yoing pleasure.
Most metal yo-yos are made from aluminium which is a relatively soft metal. It will quite easily break, bent, rip and dent. One of the weak points of an aluminium yoyo is the joins between the axle and the yoyo halves. The threaded axle (which is usually made of a very hard steel) screws into a threaded hole in the relatively soft side of the yoyo. These threaded holes are easily damaged by mis-threading or over-tightening.
Mis-threading a yoyo axle will shred the thread in the yoyo halves. Mis-threading is caused by accidentally stripping the thread from the hole when screwing the axle in (when joining the 2 yoyo halves back together). This damage is permanent. When putting a yoyo back together, be very careful and take your time. If it feels tight, or looks bent or wonky, take it out and start again. Remember: the thread in the soft yoyo will strip off first, not the thread on the hard axle.
Over-tightening a yoyo can pull the thread through the soft metal of the yoyo, literally stripping the thread from the hole. You will be left with no thread to grip the thread of the axle, and a yoyo that falls apart. This will not be covered by an warranty!
If a metal yoyo is trodden or sat on, you will end up with a wonky yoyo with a wobble to match. Crushing a yoyo can cause the axle to bend, the threaded axle hole in the yoyo to distort, or the actual yoyo halves to become misshapen. All are bad news for any yoyo! Surprisingly, a common cause of squashed yoyos is when they are carried in a back pocket. The owner then sits down, the yoyo is crushed, the owner notices. Too late! One dead yoyo. A similar thing happens when someone puts their yoyo on the sofa then along someone sits on it. Buy a suitable case or holder for a yoyo for when you are carrying it or storing it!
Finally, dings. A ding is when your yoyo hits something hard during play and dents or scratches. It might hit the floor, a wall, the ceiling! Metal yoyos are amazingly easy to ding. Hitting something during play is almost inevitable. Dings spoil the appearance and performance of a yoyo. Until you are a really good player or have money to burn, I would recommend playing in a large room away from walls or furniture and over a soft (e.g. carpeted) floor. Concrete floors, brick walls and pavements are a definite no-no!
So the golden rules are:
1. Never over-tighten a yoyo.
2. Never mis-thread a yoyo.
3. Do not carry a yoyo in your pocket
4. Do not sit or tread on a yoyo
5. Play over a soft surface
6. Put your yoyo somewhere safe when not in use!
7. Treat your metal yoyo with respect
Finally a plea to parents: PLEASE do not buy your child an expensive metal yoyo. These really are not kids toys. It is not at all uncommon for a child to be bought one of these and for it to last one week before it is broken.
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| What is the difference between thick and thin lube?
Note: Yo-yo 'lube' (lubricant) is another name for yoyo oil.
Yoyo lube comes in different thicknesses. This is the thickness or viscosity of the oil.
A thick lube will be slow down a yoyo bearing more than thinner oil, making the yoyo more responsive. This might be desired if your yoyo is too unresponsive and you want to make it more responsive (so that it returns to the hand more readily) or if you are using a looping yoyo where a more responsive bearing is often desirable.
A thinner lube will make the bearing run more freely with less resistance, making the yoyo less responsive. The yoyo will spin for longer and sleep times will be greater. This is usually desired for string tricks where you want the maximum spin time to perform a series of tricks.
YoyoJam have called their lube 'thick' and 'thin'. The YoyoJam thin oil is the thinnest of the oils. The Duncan lube is thick. The yoyojam Brain Oil is somewhere in between thick and thin.
If you do not have any yo-yo lube then sewing machine oil or a similar very light oil can be used.
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All about yoyo strings
The photo shows the construction of a type 6 yo-yo string.
There is a bewildering variety of yo-yo strings. Different types, colours, materials and lengths. I often get asked 'what is the difference', and 'which yoyo string should I use'. Here are some answers!
How is a yo-yo string made?
Yo-yo strings are quite clever. They are made of a single length of string which is doubled up and then twisted (wound up) to make a single string with a loop at one end. The two ends are usually knotted. The end with the loop is where the yoyo axle goes; the loop wraps around the axle.
How long are yo-yo strings?
There is no standard length. Yoyo string lengths vary with manufacturer and even with the batch produced.
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| What is a Starburst response system?
The photo shows the starburst in a YoyoJam Speedmaker yoyo.
What is a Starburst response system, what does it do, how does it work, what modifications are possible?
A 'starburst' response system is a common response system used in yo-yos. Response systems cause the yoyo to return to the hand. A starburst is the name given to a series of raised ridges arranged around the centre of a yo-yo, around the bearing, as shown in the photo (the photo shows a YoyoJam Speedmaker). The ridges cause friction between the string and the yoyo. When the yoyo is sleeping, this friction will be low, but if you tug the yoyo the string will tend to bundle against the sides of the yoyo and the friction from the starburst pattern will be enough to cause the yoyo string to wind back around the yoyo and so returns the yoyo to the hand.
Some new yo-yos, notably the YoyoFactory SpeedDial use an adjustable starburst system.
Pros: A simple, cheap and effective response system. Never wears out.
Cons: It can be a little harsh, making the yo-yo 'bite' or 'snap' back at you. It is not easily modified.
Modifications: You can reduce the amount of friction a starburst produces by removing or reducing the height of some of the ridges (with a knife or fine grit paper) but this is not recommended unless you know what you are doing.
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| What is an O-ring response system?
The photo shows the O-ring in a YoyoJam Speedmaker yoyo.
What is an o-ring response system, what does it do, how does it work, what modifications are possible?
O-ring aka Yo-Ring (YoyoJam)
An o-ring is simply a ring of a rubber-like material. The o-ring in fitted into a circular groove in the inside of the yoyo, around the bearing. It stands slightly proud of the surface of the inner face of the yoyo. The 'o-ring' is used in a yoyo to provide friction (response) between the yoyo and the yoyo string. Like a starburst, this friction causes the yoyo to return to the hand.
The photo shows an o-ring in a YoyoJam Speedmaker yo-yo: it is the black rubber ring inserted into a recess on the inside of the yoyo.
Pros: A simple, cheap and effective response system. In my opinion this is a bit more subtle than a starburst. Extremely slow to wear out. Easy to replace. Can be modified.
Cons: Perhaps not as many options as a friction sticker or pad. Like the starburst, it is not that easily modified.
Modifications: Different types of o-rings (such as silicon o-rings) with differing levels of responsiveness are available. By changing the o-ring you can modify the response of your yoyo.
More radical changes to response can be achieved using a sharp knife to trim back the o ring Not recommended unless you know what you are doing; you could easily ruin your yoyo. Kids - PLEASE don't mess around with knives! Trimming the o-ring back until it is flush with the surface of the yoyo will greatly reduce the response of the yoyo. It will sleep longer but it will be much harder to get to return from a sleeper, you may even need to use a bind.
You can also remove the o-ring and fill the groove that the ring fits into with flowable silicon. This will make a very smooth unresponsive yo-yo.
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| What is a Hybrid response system?
The photo shows the hybrid response in the YoyoJam Hybrid Hitman yoyo.
What is a Hybrid response system, what does it do, how does it work, what modifications are possible?
A hybrid response is simply the use of two different response mechanisms in the same yoyo. Usually this means the use of the starburst response in one half of the yoyo, and the O-ring in the other half. This hybrid mix of response systems provides a different feel that is popular with many players. Presently YoyoJam is the main yoyo manufacturer using this technique and I believe they originated the idea. The photo shows the hybrid response in the Hitman Hybrid with one half of the yoyo having the starburst and the other the o-ring.
Pros: A simple, cheap and effective response system. Unique feel. In my opinion this is a more subtle than a pure starburst. The starburst will never wear out, and the o-ring is extremely slow to wear out. You can replace the o-ring. Can be modified.
Cons: Some players prefer the pure o-ring response but this is all down to personal preference.
Modifications: You could attempt the modifications given above for either the o-ring or the starburst or both! The pure o-ring response is more easily modified.
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| What is a Brake Pad response system?
The photo shows a brake pad fitted in a Duncan bumblebee yoyo. .
What is a Brake Pad response system?, what does it do, how does it work, what modifications are possible?
A.K.A. Duncan Brake Pad
Brake pads are made by Duncan and fit some of the Duncan range of yo-yos. A Duncan brake pad is a shaped and cut piece of thin cork-based material with an adhesive backing. Rather like a friction sticker made of cork.
The brake pad causes friction (response) between the yoyo and the yoyo string, helping the yoyo return to the hand.
Pros: Simple, cheap and effective response system. Long-lasting. Easy to replace.
Cons: Not widely used now. Only fits Duncan yo-yos that are designed to use it.
Modifications: Very limited scope for mods. You can reduce the response by sanding the brake pad (not recommended unless you know what you are doing!).
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| What is a Friction Sticker or Pad response system? 
The photo shows the recessed pads fitted to the hspin Envy64 yoyo.
What is a friction sticker or pad, what does it do, how does it work, what modifications are possible?
A friction sticker, also known as a pad, is a flat ring of material that is stuck to the inside of a yoyo around the bearing. They are made from many different materials, and new materials are always being tried. Common materials currently include different types of rubber, vinyl, plastic, cloth, silicon, and synthetic rubber-like materials. They are usually supplied with a peel-off backing covering a self-adhesive coating which sticks the pad to the yoyo.
As with the other response systems, the pads provide friction between the string and the side of the yoyo to make the yoyo return to the hand. The different materials in use give different degrees of friction and hence affect the responsiveness of the yoyo.
Friction stickers come in a variety of sizes, and the size of the sticker refers to the size of the bearing they are designed to fit around. They also vary in thickness. Dif-e-yo make the best-known pads and they make them in two thicknesses: thin (0.015 inches) and thick (0.03 inches). Most pads are thin.
Pads can be mounted directly on the surface of the yoyo, but more commonly they are mounted in a depression or recess in the surface. This is where the term 'recessed response system' comes from - the pads are 'recessed' into the yoyo. This recess keeps the gap wide and further reduces responsiveness.
Pros: Arguably the most versatile response system, since it is pretty easy to replace pads to vary the way a yoyo plays.
Replacement pads are comparatively cheap.
Easy to replace. Can be modified.
Cons: Pads wear out. Some pads (like the Duncan Friction Stickers) wear out quite quickly, and need to be changed quite regularly.
New pads can be too responsive. Pads do take time to wear in - typically a few hours of play. As pads wear out, their properties change and the response of the yo-yo changes. This means that there will often be a 'sweet spot' at which the yo-yo plays just right for you, but this will not last forever. Eventually the pads will need replacing and wearing in again until you reach that 'sweet spot' again. Different pads are available that wear more slowly or evenly: experiment to find the ones that best suit you! If you are unsure, the Dif-Pads are a good place to start, providing a pretty even response from new.
Modifications: There are loads of different pads on sale and there is nothing to stop you mixing pad types and thicknesses on the same yo-yo. For example, you might find that a thick Dif-pad on one side and a (thin) Kentaro pad on the other side of a yoyo gives you just the response and binds that you like. You can even use just a single pad on one side of the yoyo if it suits you. Remember: experiment - there is no 'right' set-up: it is whatever suits you.
You can also experiment with making your own pads. I have heard of pads being made from sticky-backed vinyl, plasters, masking tape, paper labels etc. Not usually a long term solustion but they might get you playing when you have run out of pads.
Like the o-rings, you can sometimes use flowable silicone in a recessed yo-yo instead of a sticker. The recess just needs to be deep enough for the silicone to stick and have a ridge (edge) on both sides of the recess.
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| What is a recessed response system?
The photo shows the recess in an Any-yo Free Rider yoyo. Both halves of the yoyo are recessed, with one side (lower) fitted with a pad, the other (upper) being left empty (with the option for the owner to fit another pad if desired)
A recessed response system ('recessed pads') means that there is a recess or depression in the yoyo where the pads fit. This makes the pads less responsive since they are recessed into the yoyo. Typically the pad is then flush (level) with the surface of the yoyo. Being less proud than a surface-mounted pad, there is less friction between the yoyo and the string making the yoyo less responsive.
Pros: Most advanced player yo-yos are now made with recessed pads. It makes the yoyos considerably less responsive. The player then has even more options to change response by removing one pad, or fitting thicker or more responsive pads.
Cons: None really as long as you can handle an unresponsive yoyo! If not, you can add thicker pads like the thick Dif-pad to make the pad stand proud of the inner surface of the yoyo and so provide more response.
Modifications: Lots: you can try different pads, different thickness of pads, different combinations of pads. You can leave one side without a pad. Some recessed yoyos can have flowable silicone used instead of pads.
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| Why does my yo-yo hang to one side when I throw it?
This is a very common complaint and 99 per cent of the time the problem lies not with the yo-yo, but with the player. When you throw a yoyo (throw means throw it into a sleeper), unless the yoyo is thrown perfectly then the yoyo will lean to one side as it spins. The gyroscopic force of the spinning yoyo will maintain this position. Even seasoned yoyo players can think their new top-end high performance titanium zirconium precision machined yo-yo is imbalanced due to bad throws.
To help check if the yo-yo is imbalanced rather than just badly thrown:
1. Get another player to throw it for you and see if they have the same result.
2. Note if the yoyo always leans to the SAME side. If it does, this is more suspect.
3. Check the pads are well fitted.
4. See if you can improve your throw! Stick with it for a few days.
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| What is 'binding'?
Binding a yoyo is a technique used to make a non-responsive yoyo return to the hand. A 'bind' deliberately introduces more string into the yoyo around the bearing to increase friction between the layers of string and the yoyo and so make the yoyo return.
Modern non-responsive 'new school' yoyo's, particularly metal yoyos, are made to be very unresponsive so that they will sleep (spin) for long periods and are designed NOT to return to the hand without using a bind.
Binding is a trick in itself that has to be learned, and it is required to play most advanced yoyos. It is not a trick that a beginner can easily learn. I recommend that binding be attempted once you are reasonably competent with a yoyo. I do not recommend an advanced metal yoyo to anyone until you can bind (which is bit of a catch 22 since you cannot learn to bind without using an advanced unresponsive yoyo!)
There are loads of different binding techniques and it is beyond the scope of this FAQ to describe how to bind here. There are good links on the Links page from this site to some great online video trick archives which demonstrate binding very well indeed - I highly recommend the dif-spinners.com web site by the late, great Ryan Monson, aka Harry Houdini.
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| What is the best yo-yo?
There isn't a 'best' yo-yo. Rather like there is not a 'best' cheese! Too much is down to personal preference. The yoyo shape, weight, material, bearing, axle, response system, appearance, price and much much more all contribute to what makes a yoyo good and are all subject to an individuals personal preferences.
However, some yo-yos are definitely bettter than others. More expensive yo-yos ought to be better constructed, made of better materials, have a superior design, be machined to finer tolerances, have unique features etc. But as with many things in life, price does not always a sign of quality. For example, some yoyos will be more expensive because they are a limited edition, highly sought after or collectible.
Another complication is that yo-yos are designed with different tricks in mind. A 'best' quality looping yoyo will be pretty average at best when it comes to performing string tricks, because the shape is all wrong.
The best way to determine which yoyo is 'best' for you is to try it or at least read reviews and to seek the opinions of others. Remember that if you get the yo-yo bug you will probably end up with a collection of yoyos, with several different yoyos that are 'best' for particular tricks!
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Questions to be answered!
What is binding?
When will X yoyo be available again?
How to remove a yoyo pog
How to make a yo-yo more responsive
How to make a yo-yo less responsive
Adjusting the yo-yo gap
How to double loop a yo-yo string
Yoyo Wobble and Vibration
What are the different yo-yo string types?
How long are yo-yo strings?
There is no standard length. Yoyo string lengths vary with manufacturer and even with the batch produced.
What do I need to buy?
How to tie the yo-yo string.
Why did my yo-yo axle break?
How to look after your yo-yo.
My yo-yo doesn't return to my hand. Why?
How can I make my yo-yo sleep (spin) for longer?
My yoyo is noisy, should I care?
What are the different types of yo-yo bearings?
How to remove a yoyo pog (side cap)
What is 'double looping' a yoyo?
What are looping tricks?
What are string tricks?
What is the difference between a looping yoyo and a string trick yoyo?
My yo-yo has a wobble. Is it faulty?
Where can I learn yo-yo tricks?
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Copyright 2008, New Heart Trading. Euro-Yo is part of New Heart Trading, run by Peter Thake, a registered Sole Trader. Established in 2005, based in Hampshire, UK. All images and trade names are used with permission. VAT Registered 901 9153 46. |
